PLUMBING BASICS
PLUMBING ABBREVIATIONS
PLIMBING SOLUTIONSHOME PLUMBING BASICS
Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYCThe plumbing system in your home is designed to supply direct fresh water and discharge.
The following List gives you a good idea of how your plumbing system works.
1. Water enters your Condominium via the water main through the water meter. Typically, the water supply is then split with one side going to your buildings hot water storage and the other to suppling your cold-water needs. (Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
2. Sometimes, before the water supply splits off to the hot water heater there will be a split between the indoor and outside water supply. The indoor supply is then routed through a water softener or filter (a) and the outdoor supply goes to supply sprinklers, spigots and whatever else that does not require filtered water. (Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
3. As the water supply makes it way through the house the main supply lines are typically 1 to 3/4 inch diameter, and lines that branch off to individual fixtures are I/2 inch in diameter.
4. Wastewater exits the house through the wastewater system. The first step in this system is the trap at each fixture. A trap is designed to retain a small amount of water so that sewer gas cannot come up through the pipes and enter into your home.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
Once water has flowed through the trap, wastewater will pass through a “T” with one branch of the “T” going up and the other going down. The branch that goes up will make its way up through the roof to let in air to compensate for any vacuum that the water going down the pipe creates. Think of what happens when you hold your finger over the end of a straw that is full of water, when you release your finger the vacuum is broken and the water flows out.
As the wastewater flows out and into the main sewer system, the water will pass a number of clean outs. These clean outs typically consist of a type of “T” with the stem of the “T” at a 45 degree angle (called a sanitary “T”). There is a cap that covers the stem. The purpose of these clean-outs is to provide access for drain cleaning equipment if there is a clog in the wastewater system.
The different systems in your house require different kinds of pipe. Freshwater systems are typically built with copper tubing (a), galvanized pipe (b), and/or PVC pipe (c). Generally, copper tubing is preferred for interior piping because of its ease of installation. Galvanized pipe is found primarily in older homes. PVC pipe is not considered to be as dependable as copper or galvanized pipe, and is usually only used for systems that are not under constant pressure, such as sprinkler systems.
Wastewater typically travels through ABS pipe (a), cast iron pipe (b), or galvanized pipe (c). ABS pipe is the pipe proffered in most new construction because of its low cost and ease of installation. Cast iron pipe, while most often found in older homes, is still used today for more expensive homes because it is quieter than ABS pipe, and therefore you will not hear the sound of water flowing through it. Galvanized pipe is sometimes used in conjunction with cast iron pipe for vents and smaller drain lines.
Plumbers use a variety of specialized tools. For sweating copper pipes. These tools include a torch that uses MAPP gas (a) (a butane torch will work, but will not burn as hot), a tubing cutter (b), specialized wire brushes for cleaning pipe (c), and flux (d), which is a type of acid used to clean pipes.
For fitting galvanized pipe you will need a pipe cutter (a), which is more heavy duty than a tubing cutter, a pipe threader (b), a reamer (c) for removing the burr on cut pipes, and pipe wrenches (d).
Typically ABS and PVC pipe do not require much in the way of specialized tools other that their respective glues for joining the pipe and a handsaw for cutting it. Cast iron pipe however is cut in a very special way. A snapper (a) is wrapped around the pipe and constricted until the two halves of the pipe are snapped (broken) apart. Usually the tool can be rented at home centers and it is worth the effort of doing so as it can be difficult to get an accurate cut with a reciprocating saw.
Common Plumbing Abbreviations W/C = Toilet CWM = Clothes Washing Machine DWM = Dishwashing Machine LAV = Bathroom Sink HWT = Water Heater LT = Laundry Tray CFT = Claw Foot Tub FD = Floor Drain
HOME PLUMBING SOLUTIONS
Garbage Disposals. Garbage Disposal problems can be plumbing, electrical or appliance. If the disposal doesn’t work at all – no *hum* or any sound, then push the red (reset) button on the bottom of the disposal. If that doesn’t work, check the breaker in the electrical panel. If the unit *hums* but doesn’t turn then you can try unsticking it.. Some units come with a wrench that you can use to turn the cutter flywheel from the bottom. ( An allen wrench will work). Or, use a *plumber’s friend* , broom handle- something with a handle, and stick it in the disposal and try to turn the cutting wheel around. In effect – unstick it. If the unit doesn’t respond to the above, it’s time for an appliance repair man or replace the unit.
Garbage Disposals/Dishwashers and Septic Systems. It’s my understanding that having a disposal is like having another person adding to the load on the septic system. So… are you currently under utilizing your system, over using or about right? Dishwasher on a septic system? I don’t think really matters. If I had a dishwasher – I’d run it into a disposal even if I did not use the disposal for anything else. Dishwashers
The dishwasher does not completely drain itself. Dishwashers are supposed to leave some water in the unit at the end of each cycle. This is to keep the element type heater, used for drying the dishes, from burning up. It’s a lot like a water heater element. If a lot of water stays in the sump – the drain could be clogged. A partially clogged air gap will do the same thing. The air gap is that little chrome dome on the kitchen counter. Water Distribution
Copper Water Pipe Vs Plastic. IMHO copper rules in most situations (unless you have low pH or aggressive water) ! Over time, the plastic can sometimes *sag* and possibly get brittle. If it needs to be repaired or altered in any way, the pipe will have to be glued and you will have no water ’til it dries. Copper-you can solder, turn it on, test it and know that all is well. Any plastic to metal connection is weak, such as where the HWT connection is made. Mice and rats love many plastics. They chew on it to keep their teeth from growing through their lower jaw.
Leak in a Shower/Bath. Following is how a plumber may test a leak. Often it’s the grout or a bad pan under the shower. What I do is first fill the tub half way and drain it. This will tell me if it’s in the drain pipe. For a shower with a lead or vinyl pan I block the drain and fill the base with water. This will tell me if the pan leaks. Then I remove the shower head and put a 1/2″ cap on the shower arm and turn on the pressure. This will tell me if there is a leak in the pipe between the shower valve and the shower arm. If no leak has shown up by then I tend to think the leak is water bleeding through the tile due to bad grouting or that water is escaping the shower and going down through flaws in the bathroom floor. I can check this by taping up a plastic dropcloth inside the shower covering all the tile work and having the customer use the shower normally for a day or two. If the leak has suddenly disappeared then we know it coming through the tile. A few cups of water on the floor will show a leak through bad tile or a cracked floor base. If none of this works, it’s time to open the walls.
Faucet sound. If there is a clunking sound, 99% of the time when you turn a faucet on/off there’s a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don’t, turn the water back on and flush out the missing part.
Loose drain pipes under the kitchen sink. Don’t mix PVC washers and nuts with metal washers and nuts. Keep them consistent. The plastic washers (ferrules) go with the plastic pipe and washers. The thicker side faces the nut and the thinner side the *cup*. The metal pipe uses metal nuts and square cut rubber washers. Also, make sure that all the pipes fit down into the next pipe as deeply as they can go.
Faucet Repair. You can buy a Delta single handle faucet repair kit with a tool for maybe five to seven bucks. It has all the instructions and is very easy to do.
HOME PLUMBING TIPS
UNCLOGGING A SINK DRAIN USING A PLUNGER DISPOSAL CARE REPLACING FAUCETS
UNCLOGGING A SINK DRAIN
More than kitchens bathrooms have the most sink clogs. Kitchen sinks generally do not clog because of the hot water that surges through them from the dishwasher. Bathroom sinks can collect hair, soap and greasy products that can stop a drain.
Mechanical measures are advised by many plumbers as opposed to chemical drain cleaners.
Unclogging a sink can save you the expense of calling in a plumber.
The the steps below to prevent or unclog a sink.
To prevent clogs pour a couple gallons of boiling water down the sink. Boiling water can help dissolve soapy greasy material. If there is already a clog try a plunger. Partially fill the sink with water to cover the plunger head. ((there was a different entry referencing the a sealer on the plunger. Plunge up and down vigorously, keeping the plunger sealed against the bottom of the sink.
If you loosen the clog, run hot water through the drain to flush out the debris.
Try a Drain Auger. Based on where the clog is you have 2 choices of entry choices 1. through the drain or 2. Remove the trap and go into the horizontal drain line.
If going into the horizontal line remove the trap using large channel locks or pipe wrench. Remove the two nuts that hold the trap. Wrap a rag around the area you are clamping to prevent marring the pipes. Be sure to put a bucket under the trap to catch the water contained in the trap.
Using the auger that is a coiled cable that wraps inside a housing. There should be a handle and a crank on the housing for spinning the cable inside the drain. Using a sensitive touch, feed the cable into the drain or horizontal pipe. When you feel some resistance, you are probably up against your clog.
Pull an extra 18 inches of cable out of the housing, tighten the setscrew securing the cable, and turn the crank on the auger applying moderate force so that you push the cable into the drain or pipe. When the free cable has worked its way into the pipe, loosen the setscrew and pull out another 18 inches. Continue this procedure until the cable has reached the larger vertical pipe. Pull the cable back out, cleaning it and feeding it back into the housing as you go.
If you removed the trap, replace it now. The nuts holding the drain in place should be put on hand tight and then turned about a quarter turn with the wrench or channel locks. Do not over tighten.
Once the trap is replaced, run hot water through the drain to flush it out. If water backs up, there may still be some loose debris in the line left behind by the auger. Try plunging to get rid of this debris. Again, flush the drain with hot water.
If this does not work it is time to call in a plumber.
PLUNGER .Plungers are very useful. Often plungers are used incorrectly. Here are a few tips to guide you: Choose a plunger with a suction cup large enough to cover the drain opening completely. Fill the clogged fixture with enough water to cover the plunger cup. Coat the rim of the plunger cup with petroleum jelly to ensure a tight seal. Block off all other outlets (the overflow, second drain in a double sink, adjacent fixtures) with wet rags. Insert the plunger into the water at an angle so no air remains trapped under it. Use 15 to 20 forceful strokes, holding the plunger upright and pumping vigorously. Repeat the plunging two or three times before giving up. If unsuccessful contact an experienced plumber, from a reputable company such as ours.
DISPOSAL CARE It is best to use cold water — NOT hot water — when you run your disposal. Let the cold water run as long as the motor is running, and be sure to avoid overloading the disposal. Items such as corn husks and onion skins can clog your disposal. Do not pour fats or cooking oils into your sink. Liquid fats can solidify in cold drainpipes, trap food particles, and clog the drains. Do not put coffee grounds down the drain. If your disposal is clogged, **VERY IMPORTANT** turn off the motor and the water.** Reach under the sink and insert the service wrench that came with your disposal — or a ¼ inch Allen wrench — into the hole on the bottom of the disposal. Turn it back and forth until it can turn freely in complete circles. Then use tongs to remove whatever caused the disposal to jam. Finally, press the red “reset” button on the bottom of your disposal in case the disposal needs to be reset.
Odors Food particles which remain in your disposal can cause odors. Put a combination of ice cubes and lemon peel in the disposal, run it for about thirty seconds, and then run cold water through the disposal. Disposal cleaner or degreaser may help too.
REPLACING A FAUCET When replacing an old faucet you need to know how many holes your sink has and how far apart they are. There are three common configurations 1. Two holes four inches apart with a center hole between them. 2. Two holes eight inches apart with a center hole between them. 3. A single hole.
You will need to purchase a faucet that matches your particular hole pattern. Often people repace drains at this time as well. Often bathroom faucets are sold with drains. Consider buying a new trap and tailpiece as well. It is easier to work with new pipes and the cost is not prohibitive.
With instructions below: 1. Make sure to wear safety glasses when working under the sink as bits of rust and metal can fall into your eyes as you are working.
2. Know where the main water shut off is just in case.
3. Have a small pail ready to catch leaks.
4. If you just can’t get the old faucet or drain out, consider replacing the sink as well. This course may be cheaper than calling a plumber who might suggest replacing the sink anyway.
**MAKE SURE TO WEAR SFAETY GLASSES WHEN WORKING UNDER THE SINK AS BITS OF RUST AND METAL CAN FALL INTO YOUR EYES**
A. Turn off the water to the existing faucet at the shutoff valves. B. relieve pressure in the faucet by turning the hot and cold valves on.
If replacing the drain, remove the P-trap, and the linkage to the pop-up drain. A. unscrew the nut holding the rubber gasket against the sink. B. Try to unscrew the drain flange from the T-connector. Often this does not work, if not) take a reciprocating saw (with a metal cutting blade) and cut the drain assembly in half just above the nut.
Starting on the faucet, remove the hot and cold supply tubes to the faucet. To remove the faucet, use your basin wrench to unscrew the nuts under the faucet. If necessary, use penetrating oil to get the nuts to turn and make sure you are unscrewing them the right way as it is easy to get disoriented under the sink. When the faucet is out scrape away any old plumbers putty or caulk with a putty knife.
Some new faucets come with gaskets that seal between them and the sink while others require that you apply plumbers putty to make the seal. If yours is the latter, apply a generous amount of putty under the faucet so that it squeezes out as you put the faucet in place. Next, tighten the nuts under the faucet until the faucet is secure while also making sure that it is properly aligned.
Wrap all the inlet fittings with Teflon Tape to ensure a tight seal before connecting hookups. Wrap the tape in the same direction as you will attach the fittings. To install the hookups, first attach them to the faucet with the help of the basin wrench and then to the shutoff valves using an adjustable wrench. Be careful not to twist them as you install them as this can restrict the water supply to the faucet and cause premature failure.
Assemble the new drain (if it does not come already assembled) by first applying pipe joint compound on the tailpiece and then screwing it into the T-connector. When finished, screw the nut all the way down on the T-connector followed by the plastic washer and rubber gasket. It is important that there be a washer between the nut and rubber gasket.
Put a heavy bead of plumbers putty around the drain flange and press it into the drain hole. Next, coat the threads on the drain body with pipe joint compound and from under the sink screw the drain body into the drain flange. Once the flange and body are together, tighten the nut on the body till the gasket is pressed tightly against the underside of the sink. Make sure that when tight, the branch on the T-connector is facing towards the back of the sink.
To install the pop-up linkage, first place the pop-up in the drain hole making sure that the slot in the bottom of the pop-up is facing the back of the sink. Next, install the pivot rod in T-connector so that the rod finds the slot in the pop-up. Once lined up install the rods retaining nut snug so that the rod can still move but has no play.
Insert the lift rod into the faucet and from below attach the clevis to the rod. With the lift rod down and the pop-up in the open position, insert the pivot rod into the nearest hole on the clevis while also having the rod pass through the spring clip. If all is aligned correctly the pop up should close when the lift rod is pulled up and open when it is put down again. If not, make adjustments via the clevis screw.
Finally, unscrew the aerator from the spout, open the water shutoffs and turn the faucet on for several minutes. Check for leaks and then reinstall the aerator.
Materials: Faucet, pop-up drain assembly, penetrating oil, plumbers putty and pipe joint compound.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
Tools: SAFTEY GLASSES, screwdriver, putty knife, basin wrench, pipe wrench, reciprocating saw, tongue & groove pliers and basin wrench.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
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