Manhattan NC Electrical -Basics or Eectricity and Terms-NYC Electrician Requirements

August 5, 2007

ELECTRICAL

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BASICS OF ELECTRICITY

ELECTRICAL TERMS

POINTS OF INTEREST

NYC ELECTRICIAN REQUIREMENTS

BASICS OF ELECTRICITY

How is electricity produced in a circuit?… There are atoms in the air, these atoms contain electrons. To produce electricity you need a force to move these electrons. There are several ways to produce this force, the most common being magnetism which can be produced by generators. This force is called E.M.F. (ElectroMotive Force) . As conductors are passed through a magnetic field a voltage (emf) will be produced in each conductor. This voltage will produce the necessary pressure to move the electrons. The movement of these electrons is called electric current or amperage. Thus you have voltage and amperage which along with resistance (the load) make up an electric circuit.(Manhattan Electrician NYC Electric Tips Information)
Electricity is one of the great assets we have. When the power went off in 2003 we were reminded of it’s importance. Harnessing electricity has improved just about everything in our lives. Electricity begins mostly at large dams and waterfalls, and some nuclear plants. The constant flow of water is used to turn large generators, which through magnetism produces electricity. The electricity is than sent to power lines at extremely high voltages. When it reaches your home from sub stations, it goes through a step down transformer, ( these are the large metal units you see on the telephone pole ) and produces the correct voltage needed for your home.(Manhattan Electrician NYC Electric Tips Information)

ELECTRICAL POINTS OF INTEREST

Home Computer. Computer and monitor use very little electricity, so it does not require its own circuit

Upgrading Electrical Service. If your service needs upgrading. You probably will not have to replace your existing electrical lines. However, if you require more electrical capacity in certain rooms, new wiring runs and additional outlets are likely to be needed.

Fuses. Fuses protect the wiring from an overload (excessive current) if your fuses or circuit breakers blow, this is an indication that circuit has been overloaded. This could be caused by too many appliances plugged in, or too many rooms (outlets & lights) on 1 circuit.

Microwave. Microwaves should be on it’s own circuit, because it is a stationary appliance.

Panel Box. Switches have a set of contacts within them. These contact points open and close when operated. Upon opening, a small electric arc will occur. Under a normal load (within the switches tolerances) the arc is small unnoticeable. However if the load is high, the arc is stronger. Sometimes these contacts will develop “Hills and Valleys” due to this excessive arcing. These “Hills and Valleys” may cause the points to stay close enough to allow arcing to occur even in the open position. This is the crackling sound you hear. The switch should be replaces as well as the load checked by a qualified electrician.

Lights Flicker. The most common cause of flickering light is major appliances on the same circuit as the lighting. Lamps flicker when the appliances start up. This is caused by the appliance drawing a lot of power momentarily and basically robbing power from the rest of the circuit. Lighting will also flicker if there are any loose wiring connections, defective lamp sockets or defective bulbs.

Dimmers. One of the by products of lighting dimmers is heat. Dimmers have built in heat sinks to dissipate the heat energy safely to the atmosphere. Dimmers are rated as to the amount of watts they can safely dim (ie: 1 300w, 500w, 1000w 1500w). Dimmers will get warm to the touch but should never get hot. A hot dimmer indicates the dimmer may be overloaded (to many watts).

Ceiling Fan and Lights. To control your ceiling lighting fixture separately from the fan, you would need to have 3 wires between the switch and the ceiling outlet box.

220 Volts. 220 refers to voltage. Without getting into too much detail, modern residences are supplied by the utility with (2) power wires. (Service conductors) and (1) ground conductor. Each of the two conductors has 120 volts (when measured to ground) When both of these two conductors are present, it is said to be 220 volts. This can refer to the house “having 220” or an appliance (an A/C, Hot tub, etc) needing 220 volts.

All recessed lighting fixture such as high-hats are required to have thermal protection. Recessed fixtures have a wattage limit. When a bulb that has either too many watts or is not the correct type ( an “A” rather than a “R”) the fixture will shut down until the thermal probe is cool and then turn on again to start the process all over again. This will cause the lamps to go off and on by themselves.
This may also indicate that the fixture was installed in an environment that is trapping in the heat, such is insulation. There are special recessed fixtures designed for contact with insulation. Some one familiar with lighting fixtures can identify which are installed in your home.

“R” lamp, “A” lamp. An “R” lamp is a “Reflector” lamp. Most high-hats or recessed fixtures require “R” lamps to get the most efficient lighting. The reason is simple, any light that doesn’t go straight down is wasted light Reflector lamps reflect the majority of the lighting down where you want it. Although some recessed fixtures can use “A” lamps (standard light bulbs) you have to lower the wattage due to heat build up and waste energy.

Electrical Terms

Supplies

COPPER WIRING: Should all-copper wiring be used for any new installation?

Solid copper wiring is the material of choice for new homes or renovations.

DIMMING LIGHTS: Why do the lights dim when my appliances turn on?

High-demand appliances such as air conditioners, clothes dryers, refrigerators and furnaces need extra power when they start up. This temporary current draw can be more than just a nuisance; it can damage sensitive equipment. When in doubt, check with your electrician.

EXTENSION CORDS: Is it okay to use extension cords to reach outlets in the different rooms of my home? The existing outlets are spaced too far apart for my needs.

Electrical outlets, especially in older homes, are often spaced too far apart for modern living. This not only creates too much demand on too few outlets, it also poses a hazard when the extension cords are run under rugs and furniture. You should call your electrician to have more outlets installed throughout your home. (See PLUG-STRIPS question.)

EXTENSION CORDS: Is it okay to use extension cords to reach outlets in the different rooms of my home? The existing outlets are spaced too far apart for my needs.

PLUG-STRIPS: Is it safe to use accessory plug-strips on my electrical outlets?

Too many things plugged in at one location can create more current demand than a single outlet or electrical line can safely handle. Adding multiple plug-strips won’t solve the problem. What you need are additional outlets, and possibly new wiring runs to service them.

PLUG-STRIPS: Is it safe to use accessory plug-strips on my electrical outlets?

Too many things plugged in at one location can create more current demand than a single outlet or electrical line can safely handle. Adding multiple plug-strips won稚 solve the problem. What you need are additional outlets, and possibly new wiring runs to service them. (See EXTENSION CORDS question.)

Current

OVERLOAD: Why do the circuit breakers in my home seem to trip often and the fuses keep blowing?

A home痴 electrical system has built-in safeguards to prevent electrical overload. Too much current causes the breakers to open automatically or the fuses to melt. When a circuit shuts down repeatedly, it痴 a warning that should not be ignored ・call your electrician today!

Continuos Load - A load where the maximum current is expected to continue for three hours or more. Rating of the branch circuit protection device shall not be less tan 125% of the continuos load.

Demand Factor – For an electrical system or feeder circuit, this is a ratio of the amount of connected load (in kva or amperes) that will be operating at the same time to the total amount of connected load on the circuit. An 80% demand factor, for instance, indicates that only 80% of the connected load on a circuit will ever be operating at the same time. Conductor capacity can be based on that amount of load.

Overcurrent – Any current in excess of the rated current of equipment or the ampacity of a conductor. It may result from overload, short circuit or ground fault.

Overload – Load greater than the load for which the system or mechanism was intended. A fault, such as a short circuit or ground fault, is not an overload.

Voltage Drop – The loss of voltage between the input to a device and the output from a device due to the internal impedance or resistance of the device. In all electrical systems, the conductors should be sized so that the voltage drop never exceeds 3% for power, heating, and lighting loads or combinations of these. Furthermore, the maximum total voltage drop for conductors for feeders and branch circuits combined should never exceed 5%.

Units of Measurements

Ambient Temperature – The temperature of the air, water, or surrounding earth. Conductor ampacity is corrected for changes in ambient temperature including temperatures below 86°F. The cooling effect can increase the current carrying capacity of the conductor. (Review Section 310-10 of the Electrical Code for more understanding)

Ammeter – An electric meter used to measure current, calibrated in amperes.

Ampacity – The current-carrying capacity of conductors or equipment, expressed in amperes.

Ampere – The basic SI unit measuring the quantity of electricity. Amps is an abbreviation for amperes. Amperes is the technical term for the amount of current flowing through wiring. A good analogy has always been to think of amps as water pressure through a pipe. Low pressure, the water trickles out but high pressure and that hose can, knock the socks off you. Wiring is sized to handle different amperes, therefore your circuit breaker / fuses are rated for different amperes. Circuit breakers protect wiring.

Ohm – The derived SI unit for electrical resistance or impedance; one ohm equals one volt per am-pere.

Ohmmeter – an instrument for measuring resistance in ohms. Take a look at this diagram to see how an ohmeter is used to check a small control transformer. The ohmmeter’s pointer deflection is controlled by the amount of battery current passing through the moving coil. Before measuring the resistance of an unknown resistor or electrical circuit, the ohmmeter must first be calibrated. If the value of resistance to be measured can be estimated within reasonable limits, a range selected that will give approximately half-scale deflection when the resistance is inserted between the probes. If the resistance is unknown, the selector switch is set on the highest scale. Whatever range is selected, the meter must be calibrated to read zero before the unknown resistance is measured.

Megaohm – A unit of electrical resistamce equal to one million ohms.

Megaohmmeter – An instrument for measuring extremely high resistance.

Duty

Duty, continuos – A service requirement that demands operation at a substantially constant load for an indefinitely long time.

Duty, intermittent – A service requirement that demands operation for alternate intervals of load and no load, load and rest, or load, no load, and rest.

Duty, periodic – A type of intermittent duty in which the load conditions regularly reoccur.

Duty, short time – A requirement of service that demands operations at a substantially constant load for a short and definitely specified time.

Duty, varying – A requirement of of service that demands operation at loads, and for intervals of time, both of which may be subject to wide variation.

Grounding

GROUNDING: Is my home痴 electrical system adequately grounded?

Ground-wiring protects a home and its occupants in case of an electrical fault, such as a short-circuit. But grounding also protects expensive electronic equipment like computers and many appliances. An electrician can quickly check and add grounding capacity if needed.

Ground – A large conducting body (as the earth) used as a common return for an electric circuit and as an arbitrary zero of potential.

Grounded, effectively – Intentionally connected to earth through a ground connection or connections of sufficiently low impedance and having sufficient current-carrying capacity to prevent the buildup of voltages that may result in undue hazards to connect equipment or to persons.

Grounded Conductor – A system or circuit conductor that is intentionally grounded, usually gray or white in color.

Grounding Conductor – A conductor used to connect metal equipment enclosures and/or the system grounded conductor to a grounding electrode, such as the ground wire run to the water pipe at a service; also may be a bare or insulated conductor used to ground motor frames, panel boxes, and other metal equipment enclosures used throughout electrical systems. In most conduit systems, the conduit is used as the ground conductor.

Grounding Equipment Conductor – The conductor used to connect the noncurrent-carrying metal parts of equipment, raceways, and other enclosures to the system grounded conductor, the grounding electrode conductor, or both, of the circuit at the service equipment or at the source of a separately derived system.

Grounding Electrode – The conductor used to connect the grounding electrode to the equipment grounding conductor, to the grounded conductor, or to both, of the circuit at the service equipment or at the source of a separately derived system.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter - A device intended for the protection of personal that functions to de-energize a circuit or portion thereof within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds some predetermined value that is less than required to operate the overcurrent protection device of the supply circuit.

Ground Fault Protection of Equipment – A system intended to provide protection of equipment from damaging line to ground fault currents by operating to cause a disconnecting means to open all ungrounded conductors of the faulted circuit. This protection is provided at current levels less than those required to protect conductors from damage through the operations of a supply circuit overcurrent device.

Service

Service Drop – Run of cables from the power company’s aerial power lines to the point of connection to a customer’s premises.

Service Conductors – The supply conductors that extend from the street main or transformers to the service equipment of the premises being supplied

Service Entrance Conductors – (Overhead) The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and a point usually outside the building, clear of building walls, where joined by tap or splice to the service drop.

Service Entrance Conductors – (Underground) The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and the point of connection to the service lateral.

Service Equipment – The necessary equipment, usually consisting of a circuit breaker or switch and fuses and their accessories, located near the point entrance of supply conductors to a building and intended to constitute the main control and cutoff means for the supply to the building.

Service Point – The point of connection between the facilities of the serving utility and the premises wiring.

Switches

Switchboard – A large single panel, frame, or assembly of panels having switches, overcurrent, and other protective devices, buses, and usually instruments mounted on the face or back or both. Switchboards are generally accessible from the rear and from the front and are not intended to be installed in cabinets.

Switch, general use – A switch intended for use in general distribution and branch circuits. It is rated in amperes and is capable of interrupting its rated voltage.

Switch, general-use snap – A type of general-use switch so constructed that it can be installed in flush device boxes or on outlet covers, or otherwise used in conjunction with wiring systems recognized by the National Electric Code.

Switch, isolating – A switch intended for isolating an electrical circuit from the source of power. It has no interrupting rating and is intended to be operated only after the circuit has been opened by some other means.

Switch, knife – A switch in which the circuit is closed by a moving blade engaging contact clips.

Switch, motor-circuit – A switch, rated in horsepower, capable of interrupting the maximum operating overload current of a motor of the same horsepower rating as the switch at the rated voltage.

Switch, transfer – A transfer switch is an automatic or nonautomatic device for transferring one or more load conductor connections from one power source to another.

Switch-Leg – That part of a circuit run from a lighting outlet box where a luminaire or lampholder is installed down to an outlet box that contains the wall switch that turns the light or other load on or off: it is a control leg of the branch circuit.

Other Common Terms

Bonding Jumper – A bare or insulated conductor used to ensure the required electrical conductivity between metal parts required to be electrically connected. Frequently used from a bonding bushing to the service equipment enclosure to provide a path around concentric knockouts in an enclosure wall: also used to bond one raceway to another.

Continuity – The state of being whole, unbroken.

Feeder – A circuit, such as conductors in conduit or a busway run, which carries a large block of power from the service equipment to a sub-feeder panel or a branch circuit panel or to some point at which the block power is broken into smaller circuits.

Panelboard – A single panel or group of panel units designed for assembly in the form of a single panel: includes buses and may come with or without switches and/or automatic overcurrent protective devices for the control of light, heat, or power circuits of individual as well as aggregate capacity. It is designed to be placed in a cabinet or cutout box that is in or against a wall or partition and is accessible only from the front.

GFCI: What are GFCI outlets and where do they need to be installed?

The National Electrical Code now requires extra protection for outlets in specific areas of the home, such as kitchens, baths, utility rooms, garages and outdoors. Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs)謡hich are identifiable by their TEST and RESET buttons預re generally required in proximity to wet locations. If your wiring has not been upgraded with GFCIs, you池e not protected. Outlets (receptacles) in bathrooms are required to be GFCI (Ground fault circuit interrupters) type or GFCI protected. These GFCI receptacles are designed to protect the appliance user from electrical shock due to defective equipment or equipment/ users coming in contact with water or other grounded means. GFCI devices (receptacles and GFCI circuit breakers) are mechanical devices that can fail. These devices should be tested periodically, by pressing the test button, to ensure they perform as specified (they turn themselves off). If not they should be replaced. Since it is possible to install them incorrectly, it should be done by qualified personal.

NYC ELECTRICIAN REQUIRMENTS, TRAINING AND QUALIFYING

1. Master Electrician License
NYC Requirements:
Bachelor’s degree in engineering plus 3.5 yrs. under a licensed electrician, or Vocational School plus 5.5 yrs. under a licensed electrician, or no schooling plus 7.5 yrs. under a licensed electrician
The Master is the only one that can pull permits. Meaning this person has satisfied the city or state
requirements for the necessary experience, insurance requirements ect. Typically the master is the
owner of the company, although some companies exists with an employee who is the Master Electrician.2. Journeyman Electrician – 4 or more years as an electrician and passed the Journeyman Exam.
This person typically is the one who actually performs the work. This person cannot pull any permits
whatsoever. Although some journeymen have access to Master Electricians who pull permits for them it
is actually illegal. Some journeymen will tell you that they can get a permit, just to get the job, then
do the work and get paid, then if a permit is actually required, will be unreachable after getting paid .
Then the permit is Your Problem. You’ll have to call around and find a real company that want’s to help
you. You’re paying twice for the same job, because if it’s done incorrectly it may have to be reinstalled.
Why? Because it has to be inspected by the city electrical inspector who will not pass the job unless it
has the proper permits and the work done correctly. and the permit cost may be doubled, if the work was
started before the job had an official permit on site.

3.Apprentice Electrician – 1 to 4 years experience – Must work under the supervision of a journeman electrican.

(Manhattan Electrician NYC Electric Tips Information)

NYC license holders can work in all five boroughs: Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens, & Staten Island.(Manhattan Electrician NYC Electric Tips Information)

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Manhattan NYC Construction, Remodeling and Maintenance Glossary

August 5, 2007

Home Construction, Home Remodeling and Home Maintenance
(Manhattan Residential Construction Terms glossary NYC)

From: http://www.soundhome.com/glossary.shtml

Home Construction, Home Remodeling and Home Maintenance
A service of Sound Home Inspections, Inc. (Manhattan Residential Construction Terms glossary NYC)

ABS – A type of black plastic pipe commonly used for waste water lines. (Manhattan Residential Construction Terms glossary NYC)

Allowance(s) – A sum of money set aside in the construction contract for items which have not been selected and specified in the construction contract. Best kept to a minimum number and used for items who’s choice will not impact earlier stages of the construction. For example, selection of tile as flooring may require an alternative framing or underlayment material. See the consult Q & A’s on Contractor Profit and Overhead,Estimating Project Components, Estimating Remodeling Contracts and Estimating Construction Costs.

Arc Fault Current Interrupters AFIs or AFCIs - These are new electrical safety devices and are becoming part of the electrical codes. AFIs are designed to prevent electrical fires and should not be confused with GFIs. AFIs are recommended for bedroom areas.
The CPSC has some good information about AFIs. (Manhattan Residential Construction Terms glossary NYC)

Amperage or AMPS – A unit of electrical current or volume–see “Voltage.” Most homes have an electrical service ‘entrance’ package of 125 or 200 amps. Some older homes have 60 or 100 amp ‘entrances’. See the consult Q & A’s on Amps, Volts, and Watts.

Anchor Bolts – ‘L’ shaped bolts which are set in the concrete foundation and used to attach the framing of the house to the foundation (see diagram). See the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Architect – One who has completed a course of study in building and design, served an internship and passed a test and is licensed by the state as an architect. See the consult Q & A’s on Do We Need An Architect?

Asbestos – A common form of magnesium silicate which was used in various construction products due to it’s stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease. See the EPA’s article on Asbestos in the Home. See also the consult Q & A’s on Encapsulating Asbestos, Does My Insulation Contain Asbestos, Is This Asbestos, Asbestos Floor Tiles and Asbestos Ceiling Tiles.

Beam – A horizontal framing member designed to carry a load from a set of joists or a roof and spanning an open space. Usually 6″ x 6″ or 4″ x 10″ or larger. article on Asbestos in the Home. See also the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Blue Print(s) – A type of copying method often used for architectural drawings. Usually used to describe the drawing of a structure which is prepared by an architect or designer for the purpose of design and planning, estimating, securing permits and actual construction. See the consult Q & A’s on Buying Property and Building Your Own Home.

Bond or Bonding – An amount of money (usually $2,000-$6,000) which must be on deposit with the governmental agency in order to secure a contractor’s license. The bond may be used to pay for the unpaid bills or disputed work of the contractor. Not to be confused with a ‘performance bond’. Such bonds are rarely used in residential construction. They are an insurance policy which guarantees proper completion of a project. See the consult Q & A’s on Contractor Profit and Overhead and the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts.

Calcium Carbonate or Efflorescence – A white chalky material which is very often found on concrete basement walls and other concrete surfaces where water has leached some of the chemicals out of the concrete. Usually a sign of past or present moisture penetrations. See the consult topic index on Basements and Crawl Spaces.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) - A toxic colorless and odorless gas and common combustion by-product. CO testing must be a regular part of the annual gas furnace service. Combustion appliances including: furnaces, fireplaces, grills, generators, gas water heaters etc. require proper installation and service in order to prevent CO exposure.

Casement Window – A window with hinges on one of the vertical sides and swings open like a normal door (see diagram). See the consult topic index on Windows and Skylights.

Caulking – A flexible material used to seal a gap between two surfaces e.g. between pieces of siding or the corners in tub walls. See the consult topic index on Bathrooms.

Caulking is Great, but it’s not Magic!

Caulking and roof patching materials are wonderful products but they can also cause problems. For example: most roofing and siding systems are designed to shed water from one surface to another. Ridge caps drain onto shingles, one shingle drains onto a lower shingle, metal flashing moves water from the chimney onto the roof, etc. When caulking is used to “repair” a defect, it must be used in conjunction with the system in place. In most cases, the defective part needs to be repaired or replaced, only then can caulking be used as a secondary level of protection.

If caulking or roof patching products are used incorrectly, they can nullify the original design and cause leaks and other problem. Such incorrect usage often results in preventing water from properly shedding from one surface to another. It can result in the water being wicked sideways or even up and under surfaces.

Change Order – A written document which modifies the plans and specifications and/or the price of the construction Contract. See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist.

Chip board – See, “Oriented Strand Board.” See the consult Q & A’s on Framing and OSB vs. Plywood.

Circuit Breaker – A device which looks like a switch and is usually located inside the electrical panel or circuit breaker box. It is designed to (1) shut of the power to portions or all of the house and (2) to limit the amount of power flowing through a circuit (measured in amperes). See the topic page on Electrical Systems. See also the consult Q & A’s on Electrical.

· ’110′ volt household circuits require a fuse or circuit breaker with a rating of 15 or a maximum of 20 amps. ’220′ volt circuits may be designed for higher amperage loads e.g. a hot water heater may be designed for a 30 amp load and would therefore need a 30 amp fuse or breaker. also see GFI

Concrete – A common construction material often used for foundations, ground level floors, and sidewalks. Most concrete is made out of (1) Portland cement, (2) sand, and (3) gravel or aggregate. It is commonly reinforced with steel rods (rebar) or wire screening (mesh). See the consult Q & A’s on Concrete For Building Material, Refinishing an Old Concrete Floor.

Concrete Block – A hollow concrete ‘brick’ often 8″ x 8″ x 16″ in size. Often used in low rise commercial and some residential construction. The original design and use is attributed to the architect Frank Lloyd Wright. See the consult Q & A’s on Block vs. Concrete Foundation and Concrete Block Stairs .

Concrete Board or Wonderboard ™ – A panel made out of concrete and fiberglass usually used as a tile backing material. See the consult Q & A’s on Vinyl Coated Drywall vs. Concrete Board.

Contractor – A company licensed to perform certain types of construction activities. In most states, the generals contractor’s license and some specialty contractor’s licenses don’t require of compliance with bonding, workmen’s compensation and similar regulations. Some of the specialty contractor licenses involve extensive training, testing and/or insurance requirements. There are various types of contractors:

· General contractor – Responsible for the execution, supervision and overall coordination of a project and may also perform some of the individual construction tasks. Most general contractors are not licensed to perform all specialty trades and must hire specialty contractors for such tasks, e.g. electrical, plumbing.

· Remodeling contractor – A general contractor who specializes in remodeling work.

· Specialty contractor – Licensed to perform a specialty task e.g. electrical, side sewer, asbestos abatement.

· Subcontractor – A general or specialty contractor who works for another general contractor.

See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist and the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts. See also the consult Q & A’s on Contractor Profit and Overhead, Buying Property and Building Your Own Home.

Construction Contract – A legal document which specifies the what-when-where-how-how much and by whom in a construction project. A good construction contract will include:

1. The contractors registration number.

2. A statement of work quality such as ‘Standard Practices of the Trades’ or ‘according to Manufacturers Specifications’.

3. A set of Blue Prints or Plans

4. A set of Specifications

5. Any Allowances.

6. A construction timetable including starting and completion dates.

7. A Fixed Price for the work , or a Time and Materials formula.

8. A Payment Schedule.

9. A written Warrantee

10. A clause which outlines how any disputes will be resolved.

All contracts should be reviewed by an attorney.

Home Street Bank, has developed some forms to help develope a good project budget. Both can be downloaded in a PDF format and used to develope your project budget:

The Specification and Description of Building Materials form can be used on most construction projects and includes the most common elements in a residential construction.

The FHA 203K Cost Breakdown form was developed specifically for the FHA “203K” financing program. This program allows for a single loan that includes the purchase and renovation of a home.

See consult Q & A’s on .

Cost Plus Contract – Same as “Time and Materials Contract.”

Curtain Drain – A ditch sometimes filled with gravel and a drain tile which diverts storm and drain water away from a structure. See the consult Q & A’s on Yard Drainage.

Deeds – A deed is a document used to transfer title to real estate. For further explanation, see Deeds.

De-humidistat – A control mechanism used to operate a mechanical ventilation system based upon the relative humidity in the home.

Designer – One who designs houses, interiors, landscaping or other objects. When used it the context of residential construction it usually suggests that a designer is not a licensed architect. Most jurisdictions don’t require an architectural license for most single family construction.

Illustrations are from Wood-Frame Construction by L.O. Anderson – Agriculture Handbook #73 p. 72.
Dormer – A roof gable which is usually located at right angles to the main roof structure. Used to increase head room or as an architectural detail.

Double Hung Window – A window with two vertically sliding sashes. This common older window design was usually made out of wood and tends to require frequent repairs. See the consult Q & A’s on Framing For Windows.For information on repairs, see the Window Repair Kit. (Also see diagram).

Dry Rot – See, “Fungal wood rot.” See consult Q & A’s on Pest, Wood Rod, Mold and Fungus.

Drywall or Gypsum Wallboard (GWB) or Sheet rock or Plasterboard – A wall finish consisting of a manufactured panel made out of gypsum plaster and encased in a thin cardboard. Usually 1/2″ thick and 4′ x 8′ or 4′ x 12′ in size. The panels are nailed or screwed onto the framing and the joints are taped and covered with a ‘joint compound’. ‘Green board’ type drywall has a greater resistance to moisture than regular (white) plasterboard. See the topic page on Tub and Shower Walls.

Earnest Money Agreement – An earnest money agreement is a contract between a buyer and a seller of real estate. It is also called a real estate purchase and sale agreement. For further explanation, see What is an Earnest Money Agreement?

Earthquake Strap – A metal strap used to secure gas hot water heaters to the framing or foundation of a house. Intended to reduce the chances of having the water heater fall over in an earthquake and thus causing a gas leak.

Easement – A formal contract which allows a party to use another party’s property for a specific purpose. e.g. A sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbors property. See the topic page on Real Estate Legal Terms.

Efflorescence – See, “Calcium Carbonate.” See the consult topic index on Basements and Crawl Spaces.

Electrical entrance package – The entry point of the electrical power including: (1) the ‘strike’ or location where the overhead electrical lines connect to the house, (2) the meter which measures how much power is used and (3) the ‘panel’, ‘circuit breaker box ‘or ‘fuse box’ where the power can be shut off, and overload devices such as fuses or circuit breakers are located. See the topic page on Electrical Systems and see the consult Q & A’s on Electrical..

Energy Dissipation Basin – A pit or ditch sometimes filled with gravel which is used to collect storm water. Water in the ditch soaks into the ground slowly, thus preventing soil eroding runoff and flooding. See the topic page on Downspout Drain Systems and see the consult Q & A’s on Yard Drainage.

Estimating – The process of calculating the cost of a project. This can be a formal and exact process or a quick and imprecise process. For more information, see the consult Q & A’s on Estimating and see the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist.

Exposed Aggregate – A method of finishing concrete which washes the cement/sand mixture of the top layer of the aggregate – usually gravel. Often used in driveways, patios and other exterior surfaces.

The Exterior Envelope of a building consists of all of the elements protecting the building from the elements: roofing, siding, windows, exterior doors, porches, flashing, trim, caulking, waterproof decks, venting systems, chimneys and other elements which relate to the exterior surfaces of the structure.

Fascia – A vertical wood member, such as a cedar 1″ x 6″, which is nailed to the ends of the rafters and is often the backing of the gutter. See the consult Q & A’s on Roofs.

Fixed Price Contract – A contract with a set price for the work. See, “Time and Materials Contract.” See the topic page the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts.

Flashing – The building component used to connect portions of a roof, deck, or siding material to another surface such as a chimney, wall, or vent pipe. Often made out of various metals, rubber or tar and is mostly intended to prevent water entry. See the topic page on Roofs. See also the consult Q & A’s on Roofs, and the consult Q & A’s on Construction Details For A Deck.

Forced Air Heating – A common form of heating with natural gas, propane, oil or electricity as a fuel. Air is heated in the furnace and distributed through a set of metal plastic ducts to various areas of the house. See the topic page on Heating Your Home.See also the consult Q & A’s on Heating and Cooling.

Framing – The structural wood and/or metal elements of most homes. The floor and ceiling framing is called the joist work. Wall framing is usually made out of 2″ x 4″ or 2″ x 6″ studs. See – “rafters,” “posts,” and “beams.” See also the consult question and answers on Framing.

Fungal Wood Rot – A common wood destroying organism which develops when wood containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for a longer (6 month +) period of time. Often and incorrectly referred to as “dry rot.” See consult Q & A’s on Pest, Wood Rod, Mold and Fungus.

Fuse – A device often found in older homes designed to prevent overloads in electrical lines. See, “circuit breakers.” See the topic page on Electrical Systems and also see consult Q & A’s on Electrical.

GFI or GFCI or Ground Fault Current Interrupter – A electrical device used to prevent injury from contact with faulty electrical appliances and faulty wiring – electrical shocks. GFIs should not be confused with AFIs, the later are designed to prevent electrical fires. GFIs are required in new home bathrooms, kitchen, garage, out of doors and in other locations where one might be in contact with a grounded surface and an electrical appliance. Most GFI’s are located in the receptacle itself and can be identified by the presence of a ‘test’ and a ‘reset’ button. See the topic page on Electrical Systems and also see consult Q & A’s on Electrical.

Heat pump – A device which uses compression and decompression of gas to heat and/or cool a house. See the topic page on Heating Your Home. See also the consult Q & A’s on Propane Heat vs. Heat Pumps.

Hot Water Heating – See, “Hydronic Heating.” See the topic page on Heating Your Home.

Hydronic Heating – A heating system which uses various types of fuel to heat water which is then distributed through pipes to radiators located in various portions of the house. See the topic page on Heating Your Home. See also the consult Q & A’s on Heating Fuel Choices.

Ice Dams – A condition which can occur with snow and freezing conditions. When snow or ice melts on a roof over a heated or partially heated attic space, the melting water may refreeze over an unheated areas such as a roof overhang. This re-frozen water may create a “dam” and allow additional melt water to back up under shingles and cause leaks.(See:Illustration “A”).

Solutions include: proper roof venting and insulation (See: illustration “B”), membrane roofing or roofing underlayment, and heat tapes.

Once an ice dam occurs, remedies are difficult and or dangerous. Working on a frozen roof should be avoided, as should the use of any open flames. The use of hot water to melt the ice may help, it may also increase the amount of leakage.

Illustrations are from Wood-Frame Construction by L.O. Anderson – Agriculture Handbook #73 p. 72.

Joists – A framing member, often a 2″ x 10″ piece of lumber, which is usually spaced every 16″ to 24″ and supports the sub-floor and flooring. The joist usually ‘sits’ on a load bearing wall or beam. See the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Lath and Plaster – The most common wall finish prior to the introduction of drywall. Thin wood strips (lath) were nailed onto the framing as a base for the sand/lime plaster (see diagram). See also the topic page on Restoring and Painting Plaster and Lath Walls.

Lien – A lien is a claim for money owed against another person’s real estate. Deeds of Trust and mortgages are examples of liens. For further explanation, see Lien Priorities.

Load Bearing Wall – A wall which is supporting its own weight and some other structural elements of the house such as the joists. See the topic page on Common Construction Wisdom. See also the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Manufactured Wood – A wood product such as a truss, beam, Glue Lam TM or joist which is manufactured out of smaller wood pieces and glued or mechanically fastened to form a larger piece. Often used to create a stronger member which may use less wood. See also Oriented Strand Board. See also the consult Q & A’s on Framing and the consult Q & A’s on Roofs.

Manufacturers Specifications – The written installation and/or maintenance instructions which are developed by the manufacturer of a product and which may have to be followed in order to maintain the product’s warrantee.

Take a look…

A good example of a manufacturer’s specification comes from our sponsor, Champion Metal of Washington. Their guide for the Snap-Loc roofing system can be used to specify how the material is to be installed.

These specification are well illustrated, clear and easy to read.

Modified Bitumen Roof – See, “Torch Down Roof,” and the topic page entitled The Sound Roof.

Oriented Strand Board or OSB or Chip Board or Wafer Board – A manufactured wood panel made out of 1″- 2″ wood chips and glue. Often used as a substitute for plywood in the exterior wall and roof sheathing. See the consult Q & A’s on OSB vs. Plywood and OSB For Sidewall Sheathing.

Polyvinyl Chloride PVC or CPVC – A type of white plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines. See the consult Q & A’s on Copper vs. CPVC Piping. Polyvinyl Chloride has some potentially serious toxicity problems during manufacture and disposal. I don’t recommend the use of PVC containing materials such as: pipes, vinyl siding and some roofing membranes.

Payment Schedule – A pre-agreed upon schedule of payments to a contractor usually based upon the amount of work completed. Such a schedule may include a deposit prior to the start of work. Payments are often scheduled for the beginning of the month to allow the contractor to distribute to the subcontractors and suppliers by the 10th of the month. There may also be a temporary ‘holdout’ at the end of the contract for any small items which have not been completed. See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist and see the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts.

Percolation or Perc. Test – A test to determine if the soil on a proposed building lot is capable of absorbing the liquid affluent from a septic system. For further explanation, see Light, Heat, Telephone, etc.

Permit – A governmental authorization to perform a building process as in:

· Zoning\Use permit – authorization to use a property for a specific use e.g. a factory, a single family residence etc.

· Grading permit – authorization to change the contour of the land.

· Septic permit – a health dept. authorization to build or modify a septic system.

· Building permit – authorization to build or modify a structure.

· Electrical permit – a separate permit required for most electrical work.

· Plumbing permit – a separate permit required for new plumbing and larger modifications of existing plumbing systems.

See the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts.See also the consult Q & A’s on Buying Property and Building Your Own Home.

Plans – See, “Blue Prints.”

Polybutylene – A type of plastic pipe (often gray in color) sometimes used in domestic water supply systems. Some polybutylene plumbing systems are been recalled due to a history of leaks and failure.

Polyisocyanurate Foam – A rigid foam board insulation often used in locations where there is not enough room for standard batt insulation. A nice word which can be used to impress or confuse someone. Programmed to various temperature settings. One of the least expensive ways to reduce energy consumption. See the consult Q & A’s on Insulation and Energy.

Post – A vertical framing member usually designed to carry a beam. Often a 4″ x 4″, a 6″ x 6″, or a metal pipe with a flat plate on top and bottom (see diagram). See the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Pressure Relief Valve – A device mounted on a hot water heater or boiler which is designed to release any high steam pressure in the tank and thus prevent tank explosions.

Radiant Heat – A heating system which uses hot water or steam pipes, or electric resistance coils to heat the floors, walls or the ceiling of a room. See: Warm Touch, one of the sponsors of this glossary.

Radon – A naturally-occurring radio active gas common in many parts of the country e.g. very high levels are found in portions of Pennsylvania and New Jersey and very low levels are found in most portions of western Washington. Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawl space and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.

Rafter – The framing member which directly supports the roof sheathing. A rafter usually follows the angle of the roof, and may be a part of a roof truss (see diagram). See the topic page on Roofs. See also the consult Q & A’s on Roofs and the consult Q & A’s on Framing.

Rebar – See, “Concrete.”

Relative Humidity – The amount of moisture in a volume of air as a percentage of the maximum amount of moisture which can be held in that air at a certain temperature – cold air can’t hold as much moisture as warm air.

Riser – The upright section of a stair. The board between one stair tread and the next.

R Value – A measure of insulation. For example, typical new home’s walls are usually insulated with 6″ of batt insulation with an R value of R-19, and a ceiling insulation of R-28. See the consult Q & A’s on Leveling and Insulating A Basement Floor and Insulation and Energy.

Roof Certification – A written opinion by a roofing professional (contractor or inspector) regarding the expected remaining useful life of a roof system (roofing, venting, flashing…). Under certain circumstances a financial institution may request a “roof cert” for a property prior to the issuance of a mortgage. Not to be confused with a roofing material or workmanship guarantee, or warrantee.

Sanitary Sewer – A sewer system designed for the collection of waste water from the bathroom, kitchen and laundry drains, and is usually not designed to handle storm water. See the consult Q & A’s on Plumbing.

Sash – The frame that holds the glass in a window, often the movable part of the window. See double hung windows, and casement windows. See the consult Q & A’s on Framing For Windows

Scupper – The drain in a downspout or flat roof, usually connected to the downspout. See the topic page on Roofs.

Septic System – An on site waste water treatment system. It usually has a septic tank which promotes the biological digestion of the waste, and a drain field which is designed to let the left over liquid soak into the ground. Septic systems and permits are usually sized by the number of bedrooms in a house. See the consult Q & A’s on Plumbing.

Sewage Ejector – A pump used to ‘lift’ waste water to a gravity sanitary sewer line. Usually used in basements and other locations which are situated below the level of the side sewer. See the consult Q & A’s on Plumbing.

Setback Thermostat – A thermostat with a clock which can be programmed to various temperatures at different times of the day/week. Usually used as the heating or cooling system thermostat. See Multiple Setback Thermostats. See also the consult Q & A’s on Thermostat Accuracy.

Shake – A wood, usually cedar, roofing product which is produced by splitting a block of the wood along the grain line. Modern shakes are sometimes machine sawn on one side. See also “shingle,” and the topic page entitled The Sound Roof.

Sheathing – The plywood, board, OSB or other material used as the base for the roofing.

Shingle – A machine sawn wood, usually cedar, roofing and siding product. See also “shake.”

Side Sewer – The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It may be ‘owned’ by property owner or by the sewer utility, but it usually must be maintained by the owner and may only be serviced by utility approved “side sewer” contractors.

Single ply Roof – See, “Torch Down Roof.” See the topic page entitled The Sound Roof. See also the consult Q & A’s on Roofs.

Skip Sheathing – The normal base for shake, shingle and some tile roofs. 1″ x 4″ or similar sized boards are nailed at 90 degrees to the rafters leaving a space of about 4″ between each row and allowing for better ventilation. See the topic page entitled The Sound Roof. See also the consult Q & A’s on Roofs.

Slab on Grade – A type of foundation with a concrete floor which is placed directly on the soil. The edge of the slab is usually thicker and acts as the footing for the walls. Concrete block homes were common in California in the 1940′s and 50′s (see diagram). See also the consult Q & A’s on Foundation.

Soffit – A small ceiling-like space, often out of doors, such as the underside of a roof overhang.

Specifications or Specs. – A narrative list of materials, methods, model numbers, colors, allowances, and other details which supplement the information contained in the blue prints. See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist, the topic page A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contractsand a suggested list of roofing specifications.

Splash Block – A pad which is placed under the lower end of a downspout and diverts the water from the downspout away from the house. Usually made out of concrete or fiberglass. See the topic page on Gutters, Downspouts and Drains.

Stachybotrys – A toxic black colored mold sometimes found in wet or flooded homes.

Standard Practices of the Trade(s) – One of the more common, basic, and minimum construction standards. This is another way of saying that the work should be done in the way it is normally done by an average professional in the field.

Among the many other “standards of construction”, the following terms are used in an attempt to define a quality of work (listed here in a rough order of quality, lowest first):

· “to code”

· “minimum standards of the trades” or “builder basic”

· “standards of the trades”

· “standards of the industry”

· “manufacturers specifications”

· “craftsman like”

· “custom construction”

· “custom practices”

· “first class” or “top quality”

The specific application of the “standards” can’t be found in any one book or list, they are just one more attempt to define expectations for a specific job.

Storm Sewer – A sewer system designed to collect storm water and is separated from the waste water system. See the topic page on Gutters, Downspouts and Drains.

Time and Materials Contract – A construction contract which specifies a price for different elements of the work such as, cost per hour of labor, overhead, profit, etc. Such a contract may not have a maximum price or may state a ‘price not to exceed…’. See the topic page on A Field Guide to Bad Home Repair and Remodeling Contracts. See also the consult Q & A’s on Contractor Profit and Overhead.

Title Insurance – Title Insurance is a title company’s guarantee that the title to a parcel of real estate is affected only by matters shown on a written report. For further explanation, see What is Title Insurance?

Torch Down Roof or Single Ply or Modified Bitumen – A newer roofing material mostly used on flat roofs. This material usually comes in rolls and is applied to the roof with an open flame or ‘torch’. See the topic page on The Sound Roof.

Treated Lumber – A wood product which has been impregnated with chemicals to reduce damage from wood rot or insects. Often used for the portions of a structure which is likely to be in ongoing contact with soil and water. Wood may also be treated with a fire retardant. See the topic page on Decks.

Truss – A manufactured wood member often in the form of a large triangle which is used to form the ceiling joists and rafters on the top floor of a home.

Tube and Knob Wiring – A common form of electrical wiring used before W.W.II. When in good condition, it may still be functional for low amperage use, such as smaller light fixture. See the consult Q & A’s on Electrical.

UURHOT – An unused underground residential heating oil tank. Usually found in homes which were once heated with oil. See the topic page on Underground Oil Tanks.

Voltage – A measure of electrical potential. If we think of electrical measurements in terms of waterfalls then– Multnoma Fall has high voltage and low amperage (very fast water and low volume). The Columbia River would have low voltage and very high amperage (low speed and very high volume).

· Most homes are wired with ’110′ and ’220′ volt lines. The ’110′ volt power is used for lighting and most of the other circuits. The ’220′ volt power is usually used for the kitchen stove, water heater and dryer. (The terms ’110′ and ’220′ volts are a short hand, e.g. a ’110′ volt line is usually rated at 117 volts plus or minus 10%). See the topic page on Electrical Systems, and the consult Q & A’s on Amps, Volts, and Watts.

Wafer Board – See, “Oriented Strand Board.”

Warrantee – In construction there are two general types of warrantees. One is provided by the manufacturer of a product such as roofing material or an appliance. The second is a warrantee for the labor. For example, a roofing contract may include a 30 year material warrantee and a 5 year labor warrantee.

· Many (but not all) new homes come with a one year warrantee. Any major issues found during the first year should be communicated to the builder at once. Small items can be saved up and presented to the builder in a letter on the 11 month anniversary of the closing. This gives the builder one month to make the necessary corrections.

See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist.

Watt – A measure of the electrical requirement of an appliance calculated by multiplying voltage x amperage. For example; a 1600 watt hair dryer which uses ’110′ volt power needs about 15 amps. See the consult Q & A’s on Amps, Volts, and Watts.

Zoning – A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property e.g. single family use, high rise residential use, etc. See the topic page on A Building and Remodeling Checklist and the topic page on Purchasing Undeveloped Land.

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Manhattan Plumbing NYC & Plumbing Abbreviations,Solutions

August 5, 2007

PLUMBING BASICS
PLUMBING ABBREVIATIONS
PLIMBING SOLUTIONSHOME PLUMBING BASICS
Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYCThe plumbing system in your home is designed to supply direct fresh water and discharge.

The following List gives you a good idea of how your plumbing system works.

1. Water enters your Condominium via the water main through the water meter. Typically, the water supply is then split with one side going to your buildings hot water storage and the other to suppling your cold-water needs. (Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)

2. Sometimes, before the water supply splits off to the hot water heater there will be a split between the indoor and outside water supply. The indoor supply is then routed through a water softener or filter (a) and the outdoor supply goes to supply sprinklers, spigots and whatever else that does not require filtered water. (Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)

3. As the water supply makes it way through the house the main supply lines are typically 1 to 3/4 inch diameter, and lines that branch off to individual fixtures are I/2 inch in diameter.

4. Wastewater exits the house through the wastewater system. The first step in this system is the trap at each fixture. A trap is designed to retain a small amount of water so that sewer gas cannot come up through the pipes and enter into your home.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)

Once water has flowed through the trap, wastewater will pass through a “T” with one branch of the “T” going up and the other going down. The branch that goes up will make its way up through the roof to let in air to compensate for any vacuum that the water going down the pipe creates. Think of what happens when you hold your finger over the end of a straw that is full of water, when you release your finger the vacuum is broken and the water flows out.

As the wastewater flows out and into the main sewer system, the water will pass a number of clean outs. These clean outs typically consist of a type of “T” with the stem of the “T” at a 45 degree angle (called a sanitary “T”). There is a cap that covers the stem. The purpose of these clean-outs is to provide access for drain cleaning equipment if there is a clog in the wastewater system.

The different systems in your house require different kinds of pipe. Freshwater systems are typically built with copper tubing (a), galvanized pipe (b), and/or PVC pipe (c). Generally, copper tubing is preferred for interior piping because of its ease of installation. Galvanized pipe is found primarily in older homes. PVC pipe is not considered to be as dependable as copper or galvanized pipe, and is usually only used for systems that are not under constant pressure, such as sprinkler systems.

Wastewater typically travels through ABS pipe (a), cast iron pipe (b), or galvanized pipe (c). ABS pipe is the pipe proffered in most new construction because of its low cost and ease of installation. Cast iron pipe, while most often found in older homes, is still used today for more expensive homes because it is quieter than ABS pipe, and therefore you will not hear the sound of water flowing through it. Galvanized pipe is sometimes used in conjunction with cast iron pipe for vents and smaller drain lines.

Plumbers use a variety of specialized tools. For sweating copper pipes. These tools include a torch that uses MAPP gas (a) (a butane torch will work, but will not burn as hot), a tubing cutter (b), specialized wire brushes for cleaning pipe (c), and flux (d), which is a type of acid used to clean pipes.

For fitting galvanized pipe you will need a pipe cutter (a), which is more heavy duty than a tubing cutter, a pipe threader (b), a reamer (c) for removing the burr on cut pipes, and pipe wrenches (d).

Typically ABS and PVC pipe do not require much in the way of specialized tools other that their respective glues for joining the pipe and a handsaw for cutting it. Cast iron pipe however is cut in a very special way. A snapper (a) is wrapped around the pipe and constricted until the two halves of the pipe are snapped (broken) apart. Usually the tool can be rented at home centers and it is worth the effort of doing so as it can be difficult to get an accurate cut with a reciprocating saw.

Common Plumbing Abbreviations W/C = Toilet CWM = Clothes Washing Machine DWM = Dishwashing Machine LAV = Bathroom Sink HWT = Water Heater LT = Laundry Tray CFT = Claw Foot Tub FD = Floor Drain

HOME PLUMBING SOLUTIONS

Garbage Disposals. Garbage Disposal problems can be plumbing, electrical or appliance. If the disposal doesn’t work at all – no *hum* or any sound, then push the red (reset) button on the bottom of the disposal. If that doesn’t work, check the breaker in the electrical panel. If the unit *hums* but doesn’t turn then you can try unsticking it.. Some units come with a wrench that you can use to turn the cutter flywheel from the bottom. ( An allen wrench will work). Or, use a *plumber’s friend* , broom handle- something with a handle, and stick it in the disposal and try to turn the cutting wheel around. In effect – unstick it. If the unit doesn’t respond to the above, it’s time for an appliance repair man or replace the unit.

Garbage Disposals/Dishwashers and Septic Systems. It’s my understanding that having a disposal is like having another person adding to the load on the septic system. So… are you currently under utilizing your system, over using or about right? Dishwasher on a septic system? I don’t think really matters. If I had a dishwasher – I’d run it into a disposal even if I did not use the disposal for anything else. Dishwashers

The dishwasher does not completely drain itself. Dishwashers are supposed to leave some water in the unit at the end of each cycle. This is to keep the element type heater, used for drying the dishes, from burning up. It’s a lot like a water heater element. If a lot of water stays in the sump – the drain could be clogged. A partially clogged air gap will do the same thing. The air gap is that little chrome dome on the kitchen counter. Water Distribution

Copper Water Pipe Vs Plastic. IMHO copper rules in most situations (unless you have low pH or aggressive water) ! Over time, the plastic can sometimes *sag* and possibly get brittle. If it needs to be repaired or altered in any way, the pipe will have to be glued and you will have no water ’til it dries. Copper-you can solder, turn it on, test it and know that all is well. Any plastic to metal connection is weak, such as where the HWT connection is made. Mice and rats love many plastics. They chew on it to keep their teeth from growing through their lower jaw.

Leak in a Shower/Bath. Following is how a plumber may test a leak. Often it’s the grout or a bad pan under the shower. What I do is first fill the tub half way and drain it. This will tell me if it’s in the drain pipe. For a shower with a lead or vinyl pan I block the drain and fill the base with water. This will tell me if the pan leaks. Then I remove the shower head and put a 1/2″ cap on the shower arm and turn on the pressure. This will tell me if there is a leak in the pipe between the shower valve and the shower arm. If no leak has shown up by then I tend to think the leak is water bleeding through the tile due to bad grouting or that water is escaping the shower and going down through flaws in the bathroom floor. I can check this by taping up a plastic dropcloth inside the shower covering all the tile work and having the customer use the shower normally for a day or two. If the leak has suddenly disappeared then we know it coming through the tile. A few cups of water on the floor will show a leak through bad tile or a cracked floor base. If none of this works, it’s time to open the walls.

Faucet sound. If there is a clunking sound, 99% of the time when you turn a faucet on/off there’s a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don’t, turn the water back on and flush out the missing part.

Loose drain pipes under the kitchen sink. Don’t mix PVC washers and nuts with metal washers and nuts. Keep them consistent. The plastic washers (ferrules) go with the plastic pipe and washers. The thicker side faces the nut and the thinner side the *cup*. The metal pipe uses metal nuts and square cut rubber washers. Also, make sure that all the pipes fit down into the next pipe as deeply as they can go.

Faucet Repair. You can buy a Delta single handle faucet repair kit with a tool for maybe five to seven bucks. It has all the instructions and is very easy to do.

HOME PLUMBING TIPS

UNCLOGGING A SINK DRAIN USING A PLUNGER DISPOSAL CARE REPLACING FAUCETS

UNCLOGGING A SINK DRAIN

More than kitchens bathrooms have the most sink clogs. Kitchen sinks generally do not clog because of the hot water that surges through them from the dishwasher. Bathroom sinks can collect hair, soap and greasy products that can stop a drain.

Mechanical measures are advised by many plumbers as opposed to chemical drain cleaners.

Unclogging a sink can save you the expense of calling in a plumber.

The the steps below to prevent or unclog a sink.

To prevent clogs pour a couple gallons of boiling water down the sink. Boiling water can help dissolve soapy greasy material. If there is already a clog try a plunger. Partially fill the sink with water to cover the plunger head. ((there was a different entry referencing the a sealer on the plunger. Plunge up and down vigorously, keeping the plunger sealed against the bottom of the sink.

If you loosen the clog, run hot water through the drain to flush out the debris.

Try a Drain Auger. Based on where the clog is you have 2 choices of entry choices 1. through the drain or 2. Remove the trap and go into the horizontal drain line.

If going into the horizontal line remove the trap using large channel locks or pipe wrench. Remove the two nuts that hold the trap. Wrap a rag around the area you are clamping to prevent marring the pipes. Be sure to put a bucket under the trap to catch the water contained in the trap.

Using the auger that is a coiled cable that wraps inside a housing. There should be a handle and a crank on the housing for spinning the cable inside the drain. Using a sensitive touch, feed the cable into the drain or horizontal pipe. When you feel some resistance, you are probably up against your clog.

Pull an extra 18 inches of cable out of the housing, tighten the setscrew securing the cable, and turn the crank on the auger applying moderate force so that you push the cable into the drain or pipe. When the free cable has worked its way into the pipe, loosen the setscrew and pull out another 18 inches. Continue this procedure until the cable has reached the larger vertical pipe. Pull the cable back out, cleaning it and feeding it back into the housing as you go.

If you removed the trap, replace it now. The nuts holding the drain in place should be put on hand tight and then turned about a quarter turn with the wrench or channel locks. Do not over tighten.

Once the trap is replaced, run hot water through the drain to flush it out. If water backs up, there may still be some loose debris in the line left behind by the auger. Try plunging to get rid of this debris. Again, flush the drain with hot water.

If this does not work it is time to call in a plumber.

PLUNGER .Plungers are very useful. Often plungers are used incorrectly. Here are a few tips to guide you: Choose a plunger with a suction cup large enough to cover the drain opening completely. Fill the clogged fixture with enough water to cover the plunger cup. Coat the rim of the plunger cup with petroleum jelly to ensure a tight seal. Block off all other outlets (the overflow, second drain in a double sink, adjacent fixtures) with wet rags. Insert the plunger into the water at an angle so no air remains trapped under it. Use 15 to 20 forceful strokes, holding the plunger upright and pumping vigorously. Repeat the plunging two or three times before giving up. If unsuccessful contact an experienced plumber, from a reputable company such as ours.

DISPOSAL CARE It is best to use cold water — NOT hot water — when you run your disposal. Let the cold water run as long as the motor is running, and be sure to avoid overloading the disposal. Items such as corn husks and onion skins can clog your disposal. Do not pour fats or cooking oils into your sink. Liquid fats can solidify in cold drainpipes, trap food particles, and clog the drains. Do not put coffee grounds down the drain. If your disposal is clogged, **VERY IMPORTANT** turn off the motor and the water.** Reach under the sink and insert the service wrench that came with your disposal — or a ¼ inch Allen wrench — into the hole on the bottom of the disposal. Turn it back and forth until it can turn freely in complete circles. Then use tongs to remove whatever caused the disposal to jam. Finally, press the red “reset” button on the bottom of your disposal in case the disposal needs to be reset.

Odors Food particles which remain in your disposal can cause odors. Put a combination of ice cubes and lemon peel in the disposal, run it for about thirty seconds, and then run cold water through the disposal. Disposal cleaner or degreaser may help too.

REPLACING A FAUCET When replacing an old faucet you need to know how many holes your sink has and how far apart they are. There are three common configurations 1. Two holes four inches apart with a center hole between them. 2. Two holes eight inches apart with a center hole between them. 3. A single hole.

You will need to purchase a faucet that matches your particular hole pattern. Often people repace drains at this time as well. Often bathroom faucets are sold with drains. Consider buying a new trap and tailpiece as well. It is easier to work with new pipes and the cost is not prohibitive.

With instructions below: 1. Make sure to wear safety glasses when working under the sink as bits of rust and metal can fall into your eyes as you are working.

2. Know where the main water shut off is just in case.

3. Have a small pail ready to catch leaks.

4. If you just can’t get the old faucet or drain out, consider replacing the sink as well. This course may be cheaper than calling a plumber who might suggest replacing the sink anyway.

**MAKE SURE TO WEAR SFAETY GLASSES WHEN WORKING UNDER THE SINK AS BITS OF RUST AND METAL CAN FALL INTO YOUR EYES**

A. Turn off the water to the existing faucet at the shutoff valves. B. relieve pressure in the faucet by turning the hot and cold valves on.

If replacing the drain, remove the P-trap, and the linkage to the pop-up drain. A. unscrew the nut holding the rubber gasket against the sink. B. Try to unscrew the drain flange from the T-connector. Often this does not work, if not) take a reciprocating saw (with a metal cutting blade) and cut the drain assembly in half just above the nut.

Starting on the faucet, remove the hot and cold supply tubes to the faucet. To remove the faucet, use your basin wrench to unscrew the nuts under the faucet. If necessary, use penetrating oil to get the nuts to turn and make sure you are unscrewing them the right way as it is easy to get disoriented under the sink. When the faucet is out scrape away any old plumbers putty or caulk with a putty knife.

Some new faucets come with gaskets that seal between them and the sink while others require that you apply plumbers putty to make the seal. If yours is the latter, apply a generous amount of putty under the faucet so that it squeezes out as you put the faucet in place. Next, tighten the nuts under the faucet until the faucet is secure while also making sure that it is properly aligned.

Wrap all the inlet fittings with Teflon Tape to ensure a tight seal before connecting hookups. Wrap the tape in the same direction as you will attach the fittings. To install the hookups, first attach them to the faucet with the help of the basin wrench and then to the shutoff valves using an adjustable wrench. Be careful not to twist them as you install them as this can restrict the water supply to the faucet and cause premature failure.

Assemble the new drain (if it does not come already assembled) by first applying pipe joint compound on the tailpiece and then screwing it into the T-connector. When finished, screw the nut all the way down on the T-connector followed by the plastic washer and rubber gasket. It is important that there be a washer between the nut and rubber gasket.

Put a heavy bead of plumbers putty around the drain flange and press it into the drain hole. Next, coat the threads on the drain body with pipe joint compound and from under the sink screw the drain body into the drain flange. Once the flange and body are together, tighten the nut on the body till the gasket is pressed tightly against the underside of the sink. Make sure that when tight, the branch on the T-connector is facing towards the back of the sink.

To install the pop-up linkage, first place the pop-up in the drain hole making sure that the slot in the bottom of the pop-up is facing the back of the sink. Next, install the pivot rod in T-connector so that the rod finds the slot in the pop-up. Once lined up install the rods retaining nut snug so that the rod can still move but has no play.

Insert the lift rod into the faucet and from below attach the clevis to the rod. With the lift rod down and the pop-up in the open position, insert the pivot rod into the nearest hole on the clevis while also having the rod pass through the spring clip. If all is aligned correctly the pop up should close when the lift rod is pulled up and open when it is put down again. If not, make adjustments via the clevis screw.

Finally, unscrew the aerator from the spout, open the water shutoffs and turn the faucet on for several minutes. Check for leaks and then reinstall the aerator.

Materials: Faucet, pop-up drain assembly, penetrating oil, plumbers putty and pipe joint compound.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)

Tools: SAFTEY GLASSES, screwdriver, putty knife, basin wrench, pipe wrench, reciprocating saw, tongue & groove pliers and basin wrench.(Manhattan Plumbing Tips information NYC)
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Manhattan Condo Co-ops and brownstones: Mechanical Systems

August 5, 2007

This article covers a few basic aspects of Electrical, Plumbing, Heating and AC Systems. Electrical
A few Renovation points

New York City has the most stringent electrical codes in the United States, exceeding the National Electrical Code in many areas.

If the apartment to be renovated has not had the electrical service legally upgraded after 1968 or you plan to have major new electrical loads (cooking equipment, steam room generator, electric dryer), you will need to bring up more power from the basement through a new “electrical riser”.

The size of the apartment will determine the allowance for circuits.

The number of circuit breaker slots required determines the capacity required for the electrical riser.

The total projected electrical load in an apartment will be far less that the maximum capacity of the riser. sp; Some electrical devices (kitchen counter outlets, air conditioners, refrigerators ) must be on dedicated circuits and can not be combined with other loads even if the loads are small.

Electricians usually install the wiring for special use items. In some instances other contractors may do the system hookup of special devices, but the electrician usually installs the actual wire.

A convenience outlet must be located on every 12 feet of wall minimum. Extension cords are not allowed.

The circuit breaker box must be accessible.

A convenience outlet must be located on every 12 feet of wall minimum. Extension cords are not allowed.

Clothes closet lights must be enclosed, there may never be an exposed light bulb. A clothes closet may not have a switch or other electrical device within. Door jam switches are permissible.A few general manhattan electrical points

The electrical supply into the apartment is rated in Amperes and comes from the electric meter room via the “electrical riser”. There is a neutral or common wire that is grounded at the service entrance into the building. The conduit around the wires is considered the ground.

Existing wiring since the building was erected, is often running in electrical pathways called conduits. If an existing conduit is not available, then a flexible type of metal conduit called “Bx” cable is used.

?The size of the wire and the distance from the meter area will determine the amount of electrical power that the apartment can draw and is the rated electrical riser capacity.

Each wire size has a recommended maximum load. The type of insulation around the wire also affects the application for the wire.

?Insulation on wire is color coded; black, red and blue is used for the phase or hot wires, white is used for the neutral or common wire, green is used for a ground wire.Plumbing
A few Plumbing Renovation Points

Many buildings have additional and more stringent guidelines than the NYC Building Department (DOB).

Gas service may originate from a building riser that feeds several apartments or from an individual riser that is metered for only one apartment.

All exposed pipes should be inspected while the walls are open.

Plastic drain and water pipes are prohibited in New York City because of the toxicity.

Waterproofing in shower stalls requires sheet lead under the tile.

Renovations may or may not require some gas pipe relocation.Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning
A Few Heating System Points

Most Heating is supplied by steam generated from oil-fired boilers in the basement or from Con Edison via pipes under the street.

Most buildings are heated to a level comfortable to the coldest tenant.

Steam radiators are generally on or off with little temperature control in between.Ventilation

Every occupiable room such as a bathroom must have a window or be mechanical ventilated on a continues basis.

Fresh air must be provided to rooms that are mechanically ventilated and do not have windows.Basic Air Conditioning
An air conditioner is basically a refrigerator without the insulated box. There are two parts to an air conditioner.

A Compressor compresses gas, which then runs through coils condensing into a liquid, this then runs through an expansion valve forming a gas.

This gas changes to liquid then eventually evaporates to become cold, low-pressure gas. This cold gas runs through a set of coils that allow the gas to absorb heat. The heat is absorbed from the air and is cooled, cooling down the air in an apartment.Air conditioning is measured by Btu capacity. BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. 1 BTU equals 1,055 joules. In heating and cooling terms, 1 “ton” equals 12,000 BTU. Basic Air Conditioning

A few NYC AC points
To size an air conditioner for your specific needs, contact an HVAC contractor or your general contractor will bring on an HVAC contractor.

Common types of NYC Air Conditioning:

Window AC units

Through-the-wall AC units

Central ducted AC systems

Central ductless AC systems

Many buildings do not allow additional AC thru-wall penetrations on the public facades.

Room air handler units are operated by individual room thermostats for total comfort control, efficient since only the areas requiring cooling are cooled.

Enclosures around the condenser packages are often sound proofed.

In NYC Package thru-wall units will have to meet federal and state energy efficiency requirements. All split systems must be acceptable to the DOB.

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Manhattan Construction Finishing Work NYC

August 5, 2007

Skim Coating
Introduction
Extensive plaster reconstruction is common in many older buildings. The underlying coat is often 40-75 years old . Often because an original plaster mix had a large percentage of sand and less gypsum there can be a large amount of crumbling.

This crumbling plaster must be removed.

Surface binder products are applied to fill the voids.

White coats of gauging plaster will bring the level to it’s final plane.

Cracks in any plaster surface must be dug out and repaired under the surface.Basics

Skim coating is the method used to make the walls and ceiling flat, level and plumb.

Apartments are never completely squared with walls flat or level and corners are not 90% angles.

Sometimes close but never acceptable for a High-End renovation.

Contractors select a point where a straight line will fall at the base board and the crown molding.

Contractors work off the high points of the walls and low points of the ceilings.

Often contractors use the molding lines as a gauge to where the wall and ceiling level should be.

By skim coating or gauge plastering contractors can bring walls, ceilings and corners close to level and smooth.

Contractors usually Install new corners on all the beams and columns to the molding level.

Use a contractor that does exceptional plaster work including repairing, leveling and skim coating.Woodwork, Trim, Moldings, Doors

Wood changes in temperature and humidity.

Contractors use various methods to minimize the movement and prevent cracking.

Painted moldings and other painted wood items are sealed and primed.

Materials such as wood and plaster have a flexible joint between them. This helps with deter the affects of humidification.A Few Ceramics and Tiles Point

Common types of stone used in construction are travertine, limestone, sandstone, granite, marble, and slate.

Property owners and their designers should check the slab material selected. There is a huge range of ceramic tile choices.

When installing tiles and ceramics the setting bed is very important.Wood Flooring

In pre-war buildings, the floor material is over a sub-floor which is over a cinder filled space.

Post-war buildings usually have a concrete slab under the wood floor.

Most buildings have some type of tongue and groove wood flooring. Either herringbone or long strip installation.

Floor material moves with humidity so board lengths are usually less than 20″ long.

Sometimes sanding and refinishing are enough.

There is color differences between boards depending on the age of the wood and the grain pattern.

If the floor is in very good condition it can be lightly sanded and a new coat of finish applied.

If the floor condition is poor the wood will be sanded and then stained.

If the floor color is to be changed the wood will be sanded and then stained.A few Exterior points

Many luxury buildings come under the authority of the New York City Landmarks Commission.

Exteriors are protected and regulated.

Window replacement requires buildings to have nearly the exact dimensions and characteristics.

Courtyards or windows on unprotected sides of the building may have some leeway in configuration.

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Manhattan Bookshow NYC

August 4, 2007

Manhattanhome.org Press(Manhattan Book Show 2007)

Manhattanhome.org Press recently attended the Book Expo 2007 at the Jacon Javits Center.Here are some of the highlights Manhattanhome.org Press noticed.

Managing digital warehousing, Audio Publishers conference, mobile device e reading, educational sessions, controversial panels, new titles releases, book buying & selling, and global trend setting, cooking, eduction, avante garde, fiction, biographies, distribution, Independent Publishers,travel guides and comics.

Lots of information concerning Books online and Audio CD’s
A variety of different concepts for publishing information.
One booth was called, Visual thinking
A small side note: the promotion information such as cards ,etc given out was better (more clever) than most shows.
Publications that were a staple at the show was “Publishers Weekly”, “The New York Review”.

Some of the Special Events that were included:

Discussions by many noted authors

Discussion with Ken Burns, Lisa See, and Khaled Hosseini with Stephen Colbert as emcee. Discussion with Muhammad Yunus, Paul Krugman, Valerie Plame Wilson and Russell Simmons with Alan Alda as emcee. CHECK VERIFY and reading —Audiobook readings with Author Tea with Roy Blount Jr., Jennifer Egan, John Lithgow and Tom Perrotta. Discussion with Alice Sebold, Ben Karlin, and Ian McEwan

(Manhattan Book Show 2007)

Education Progams

Some Note worthy discussions I noticed.
“My Space” for Authors and Publishers: Everything You Need to Know to Make it Payoff
Sports-writing Seriously
Nancy Pearl’s (a librarian that has become noted for insight on finding the books
you are looking for) discussion “A Focus on Forthcoming Books for Librarians”
Doing Business in China: An Update of Real-Life Experiences

Topics at BookExpo conference:

(Manhattan Book Show 2007)

The world-class Book Expo America Conference includes a wide range of topics for the entire industry.

There were a few sessions concerning working with Google publishing, or marketing.
Leading Publishers on Google Book Search went over learning how leading trade, scholarly, professional and STM publishers have used Google Book Search to gain broader.
Independent on Google Book Search
Come listen to several independent publishers talk about how they’ve used Google Book Search to bolster their marketing programs and sell more books. How To Promote Your Books on Google
Whether you are a large publisher or a small press, the Google Book Search program enables you to add your books to Google’s search results and attract new readers, boost book sales, and drive qualified traffic to your website—all at no cost to you. Come find out how the program works and what it can do for your books.
A variety of workshops including:
“learn powerful techniques for creating memorable characters”, “So You Want to Write Something Funny”, “Get Known Before the Book Deal”, “Story Beginnings- fiction writer and instructor”, “The Anatomy of Story: The New Approach to Screenwriting”, “You Can Write and Sell a Mystery – G. Miki Hayden, Edgar Award-winning mystery author”, “What’s in Your Locker: Tools for Writing the YA (Young Adults) Novel – K.L. Going, award-winning YA novelist”,

Conferences within BookExpo and simultaneously

There are conference sessions put on by BookExpo America (BEA) and also the American Bookseller Association (ABA) as well as other industry groups and associations. Within the book expo was a variety of other conferences including “Audio Publishers Association Conference (APAC)”, 9th Annual International Latino Book Awards, The New York Center for Independent Publishing and the Independent Book Publishers Association.

(Manhattan Book Show 2007)

There was also some good opportunities:

One session included 50 agents and editors available to meet attendees one-on-one and discuss a book project.

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Manhattan Design Competition NYC ICFF

August 4, 2007

Manhattanhome.org Press(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Next Generation Design Competition at the ICFF 2007 in NYC Piezoelectricity was a common theme throughout ICFF conference. The 2007 (ICFF) International Contemporary Furniture Fair sponsored a Next Generation Design Competition.
While at the ICFF Design Fair I was able to see a few of the presentations for the Next Generation Design Competition. The winner was the project: Lunar Resonant Street Lamps. I was able to see two of the 14 runner ups in the competition.
The winner, Lunar Resonant Street Lamps can be reviewed at their web site:
www.civiltwilightcollective.com. Lunar-resonant Streetlights sense and respond to ambient moonlight, dimming and brightening each month as the moon cycles through its phases. They offer energy savings of up to 90% over convential fixtures, while intensifying the urban experience of one of the most fundamental and beautiful cycles of nature.A little history. Earlier in this century there were similar attempts at lunar lighting. One was something called “moon towers”. In the 1930’s the US started to use lighting applying the electric grid we have today.A few characteristics of the Resonant Street Lamps:
There is Sensors on top- lights on and off so lights are more sensitive and come on with come on with ambient moonlight. There are LED “conversion kits”.
Now there is sunlight power but combined with lunar.
Lights facing down instead of up, a combination of Astronomy and architecture.

Foillowing are a few of the runner up presentations I listened to.
www.Carpetrecovery.org. Make Rugs from Excess form manufacturers.Recycled wood, carpet, PBC.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Alberto Villarreal: BrightWalk, a shoe that incorporates piezo-electric transducers and electroluminescent polymers to generate light while the user is walking or running. Bright Walk. Sneakers are designed using priezo electric trandsducers. Prieze-electric (described below) was a common theme throughout ICFF. Electroluminecent polymer. “Human Power devices”.

(Piezoelectricity is the ability of some materials (notably crystals and certain ceramics) to generate an electric charge in response to applied mechanical stress. If the material is not short-circuited, the applied charge induces a voltage across the material.)

Elizabeth Redmond: PowerLeap, a piezoelectric urban flooring system. Power Leap. Sitting 100 watts.
Plezo- electrocity. Polar charge. Glass over concrete. Distribute to local grid. Sidewalk areas that would light as pedestrian walked on them.
Michael Silver: Composite Space, Sustainable Building Applications for Computer Automated Fiber Placement Technology. Example was building of a plane as if widdled out of one piece of material. S-glass has incredible strength. This was very interesting.

Following are the other 11 runner ups.

The 14 Next Generation® runners-up, listed with their entries below, will also be featured with more detailed information in Metropolis issues throughout the year:

Reamon Yu: iSave, an LED display for faucets and showers to make users aware of their water usage, and make them more inclined to save water.

Joseph Cory & Eyal Malka: The i-rise: Vertical Dwelling State of Mind; a vertical, multi-story residential unit, with an integrated infrastructure for generating renewable energy, collecting rainwater and treating liquid and solid waste based on zero-environmental impact technologies.

Michael Kirchmann, Mark Igou, and Team SOM: Jewels of Nizam, an elegant metal screen façade for buildings screens rooms from sunlight and is informed by the local culture.

Boris Von Bormann & Nik Hafermaas UberSee: PowerSEED, an artistic sustainable light installation.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Andre Dettler: Startup Kitchen, a freestanding kitchen unit that can recycle resources and invites group participation. Energy and waste are recycled.

David Slocombe & Adrian Ashley: Loco-plug & Loco Outlet, Loco for low consumption, saves energy by opening the circuit while electric devices are on standby.

Eric Olsen: Electro-Conductive Gypsum Wallboard, a new building product that pairs flat-wire technology with fire resistant gypsum core.

Jerad Tinnin: Luminet, an LED desk light with an interesting package lifecycle.

Martina Decker: SmartScreen, a thermo-responsive screen made of shape-memory polymers that open and close regulating heat transfer into a building.

Dawn Danby, Jyoti Stephens, Mary Rick, Bainbridge Graduate Institute: Beeline, a virtual marketplace for local food distribution.

Doug Hecker & Martha Skinner: Super Absorber, a new kind of highway wall barrier system using photocatalitic cement performs the traditional roles of reducing sound & light pollution but also absorbs airborne pollutants.

Posted in Manhattan, Manhattan Designers NYC, Manhattan NYC Canada | Leave a Comment »

ICFF Manhattan NYC Furniture Fair

August 4, 2007

Manhattanhome.org Press(Manhattan Furniture Design)

The International Contemporary Furniture Fair was May 19-22 in NYC. ICFF 2007

I have put together a variety of highlights I noticed. There were many great products and Designs I was not able to view.

The International Contemporary Furniture Fair is North America’s premier event for contemporary design.

The design community is known for coming up with creative solutions to apparently intractable problems. This years ICFF held firm to that assertion.

Noteworthy was Brooklyn Glassworks, a non profit Arts center in Downtown Brooklyn.

A culturally combined noteworthy designer is Artecnica’s with Brazil Designers and craftspeople in Vietnam.

Some designers are using eco-friendly materials and sustainable materials and practices. For example, FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified birch plywood and Kirei board (constructed entirely from reclaimed agricultural fiber), made from reclaimed sorghum stalks.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Another designer uses Kraft board for a wall system.

Manhattanhome.org Press

Another designer uses recycled wood and items are designed to be used for 2 different functions, for example a crib that converts to a toddler bed and the changing table that becomes an adult sized dresser.

Tiles made from 100% recycled “eco-polysters” or new polyster free of toxic chemical antimony.

Another designer used sustainable harvested teak for its collection of outdoor chairs, lounges and tables.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Japanese modernist chair designs from 1960 are being reissued. They were not available in north America until now. Two Japanese modernist, Design: Isamu Kenmochi and Isamu Noguchi.

At ICFF Jehs +Laub debuted a “Space Lounge” chair.

At ICFF this year there was a trend of a large number of high profile designers working with multiple exhibitors and manufacturers at the fair. Some the designers are Arik Levy, Shin Azumi, Yves Behar, Jeffrey Bernett, Konstantin Grcic, Pearson Lloyd, Philippe Starck and Patricia Urquiola.

Manhattanhome.org Press

Products displayed at ICFF included furniture, materials used in a different way, new lighting concepts and designs, accessories (ex new phone designs) and new kitchen and Bath designs. Schools were represented as well from Architectural Colleges, Industrial Design programs, Art and Design programs, Architecture, Interior Design and Schools of Design and Media.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Some specific Designers and manufacturers I noticed.

Some highlights I noticed. International Contemporary Furniture Fair, New York City. May 19-23 2007.

Outsideny.com
Sparkfires.com
www.spectradecor.com
Kitchens, www.GeDCucineSoHo.com
Noguchi.org
Coronasolarlight.com
Raise.com
Hansandfranz.de
Rexite.it
Aswoon.com
Ironinspired.com
P’kolino
Iannonedesign.com
Bradascalon.com
Metropolismag.com/live
Nolenniu.com
Scavolini (kitchens)
Renovaint.com
Keikooyabu.com
(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Precious-piece.com
Sublime-living.com
Humanscale.com
Thailand Pavilion at show (an environment angle)
Christopherfarr.com
Mcs.ex
Clsterling.com
Objects-design.com
Arikanerva.com
Emmagardnerdesign.com
Molodesign.com
Orange22.com, botanist series
Thaitradefair.com
(Manhattan Furniture Design)

From Manhattanhome.org Press

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NYC Furnitue Designers Manhattan & Dumbo, Brooklyn

August 4, 2007

Manhattanhome.org Press(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Dumbo BrooklynManhattanhome.org notices many furniture designers and Manufacturers from Dumbo Brooklyn so I thought I would give a little basic info. Dumbo stands for “Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass”.

Local artist started migrating to the area in the 70’s and 80’s. A mix of townhouses, remnants of freight train rails and 19th Century Warehouses give Dumbo a great NYC feeling.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

NYC City Area Furniture Designers

Cleaning out my office I found info I would like to share on local Designers.

Most design or sell to the international communiryt but we are fortunate to have them in our back yard. Brooklyn and the Metro Area in general.

Brooklyn Designers and Manufacturers.

Some are brand new and some have been a known part of the NYC furniture Design Community.

Following are some Brooklyn and a few New York state Furniture Designers, Manufacturers and woodworkers that caught my attention.

www.Purekitchen.com, www.rdaywillcome.com, www.osoindustries.com, www.nicholasfurrow.net, www.deisgn-niche.com, www.scottbraun.com, www.robertmartindesign.com, www.iglooplay.com, www.ziapriven.com, www.wudfurniture.com, www.palosamko.com, www.standard41.com, www.pryor-williams.com, www.bradteasdale.com, www.postlogicstudio.com, www.aswoon.com, www.manchemitchell.com, www.karamelcabinetry.com, www.furthurdesign.com, www.bravespacedesign.com, www.nancy-nicholson.com (one a kind stained Glass), www.balserawoodworks.com Michael Puryear, custom furniture, 845-943-5975
www.countyfloors.com

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Out of state but one of a kind.

www.Vigilantinc.com (based in New Hampshire)
Finest Cabintry for displaying and protecting objects for premium cigars, hunting,
sporting clays and fly fishing as example.

(Manhattan Furniture Design)

Not Local:
http://www.dianewatts.com (Specialist in Mirrors)
http://www.stoneworksofART.com (Stone Work-Table Tops, Madellions, etc.)

Posted in Manhattan Designers NYC | Leave a Comment »

Manhattan World Traveler NYC – Luxury Cars

August 4, 2007

Manhattanhome.org PressManhattan Luxury Cars Worldwide

Luxury Cars

http://www.gothamdreamcars.com/

http://www.eurocars.com/

http://www.imagerentacar.com/

http://www.nycexoticcarrentals.com/luxury-car-rentals-queens.php

http://www.aircharterserviceusa.sites.ambinternet.com/925:2637:0/

http://www.eilatlimousinenewyork.com/jetfleet.htm

http://www.jetdirect.net/

http://marquisjetcard-fleet-netjets.sites.ambinternet.com/135:1209:0/http://www.millionairesconcierge.com/ Manhattan Luxury Cars Worldwide

Posted in Manhattan Adventure Traveler, Manhattan Luxury NYC | Leave a Comment »

Manhattan Home

Manhattan NC Electrical -Basics or Eectricity and Terms-NYC Electrician Requirements

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NYC ELECTRICIAN REQUIRMENTS, TRAINING AND QUALIFYING

Manhattan NYC Construction, Remodeling and Maintenance Glossary

Caulking is Great, but it’s not Magic!

Manhattan Plumbing NYC & Plumbing Abbreviations,Solutions

Manhattan Condo Co-ops and brownstones: Mechanical Systems

Manhattan Construction Finishing Work NYC

Manhattan Bookshow NYC

Manhattan Design Competition NYC ICFF

ICFF Manhattan NYC Furniture Fair

NYC Furnitue Designers Manhattan & Dumbo, Brooklyn

Manhattan World Traveler NYC – Luxury Cars

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